Some of the most beautiful beaches I’ve seen in Brazil are in Paraíba. The state capital boasts light blue waters right in the middle of the city! Besides exploring the natural pools in the capital, you can visit breathtaking beaches along the southern coast—all in just one weekend!
Want to learn more about this destination? Follow along as I share my trip to João Pessoa and provide tips on how to get there, where to stay, and what to do!
Note: The currency exchange rates used in this article are based on the rates from 11/21/24, with 1 USD = 5,82 BRL and 1 EUR = 6,10 BRL. Please be aware that these rates are for reference only, and updated values should be checked closer to your travel dates.
Where Is João Pessoa and how to get there?
The city of João Pessoa, affectionately known as Jampa, is the capital of the state of Paraíba in northeastern Brazil. You can reach the city by plane via the Presidente Castro Pinto Airport (Aeroporto Presidente Castro Pinto – JPA), located in Santa Rita, just 7.5 km (4.7 miles) from João Pessoa.
You can also get there by bus or car from Natal or Recife, especially if you plan to combine two cities in one trip (which I highly recommend!). In both cases, just follow BR-101 (heading north if coming from Recife or south if departing from Natal).
When I visited João Pessoa in 2021, I took a bus from Natal, and the journey took about 3 hours and 30 minutes. Currently, a bus ticket from Natal to João Pessoa costs R$ 79.30 (US$ 13.63 / € 13.00) through ClickBus, which is my go-to platform for purchasing bus tickets.
Where to stay in João Pessoa?
The tourist area of Jampa spans four main neighborhoods: Bessa, Manaíra, Tambaú, and Cabo Branco. All of them are well-served with restaurants and activities, and they are located along the city’s coastline.
There are inns and hotels to suit all preferences in these four neighborhoods, and some hotel chains even have properties in multiple locations. You can choose to stay closer to the activities you plan to do, but I believe it won’t make a significant difference if you opt for another neighborhood.
Nel and I stayed at Pousada Atlântica in Tambaú, and it was definitely worth it. The inn was part of a package we booked with Redrock (we’ll explain more below). It’s located on Av. Senador Ruy Carneiro, a main street dividing the neighborhoods of Tambaú and Manaíra.
This was ideal because Tambaú Beach is where tours to the natural pools depart from, and there are excellent bars and restaurants nearby, plus a supermarket that came in handy. You can include breakfast in your stay, which, by the way, is fantastic!
What to do in João Pessoa?
There’s no shortage of activities in João Pessoa. The city is highly touristic and offers several natural attractions close to the capital. One of the main highlights is undoubtedly the natural pools, with three options: Picãozinho, Seixas, and Bessa.
The Seixas pool, by the way, is the easternmost point of the Americas, which is why people say the sun rises first in João Pessoa! We chose to visit Seixas, as we only had a weekend, but all of them are worth seeing!
Tours depart from the Tambaú coastline and typically last around three hours. You board a catamaran at the beach, which stops for a while at the pools. There, you can enjoy snorkeling, kayaking, and paddleboarding. Make sure to confirm with the company you book with what is included in their package! We went with Passeios Extremo Oriente, and it was a smooth experience.
It’s important to note that for this and all other natural pool tours, keeping an eye on the tide schedule is essential. These tours are only possible during low tide, which is influenced by several factors, including the phases of the moon. If you want to see the clearest pools, check the tide chart and pick the best dates for your trip!
In addition to the natural pools, another must-see attraction in João Pessoa is the sunset at Praia do Jacaré (Jacaré Beach). Beyond the beauty of the sunset itself, this spot is famous for Jurandy do Sax, a saxophonist who has played Boléro from Ravel on a canoe in the Paraíba River during over 6,000 sunsets!
You can watch the performance from the riverside beach or join one of the boat tours timed with this double spectacle—nature’s and Mr. Jurandy’s.
João Pessoa’s beaches are also fantastic! We visited Manaíra Beach on a quiet friday afternoon and Tambaú Beach. The beaches at Cabo Branco and Tambaú have a stunning light blue color, almost no waves, warm waters, beach bars, restaurants, and even volleyball courts—a real treat! Tambaú stands out as one of the best urban beaches we’ve visited.
We noticed that Jampa residents are big fans of physical activities. The waterfront closes to vehicles every morning from 5:00 AM to 8:00 AM to accommodate walkers, cyclists, and skaters. Even during the hottest hours, people were bustling with energy playing beach volleyball.
Another great spot is Ilha da Areia Vermelha (Red Sand Island), a sandbank at Camboinha Beach. You can book tours to visit it through the same agencies that offer trips to the natural pools.
Don’t forget João Pessoa’s historic downtown, which is absolutely charming. It’s worth remembering that Jampa is one of Brazil’s oldest cities, founded in 1585. Consider spending an afternoon exploring the Fort of Santa Catarina do Cabedelo, João Pessoa Square, and the Franciscan Complex, including the São Francisco Church.
If you have a bit more time, why not visit Natal or Recife (or both)? They’re close by, and you can book tours departing from João Pessoa or rent a car. On the Do in Brazil blog, we even have a guide for a 3-day itinerary in Pipa Beach, which is only two hours from João Pessoa.
Beaches of the Southern Coast of Paraíba
During our trip, we also explored some beaches along the southern coast of Paraíba. We took a one-day tour of the Costa do Conde (Conde Coast), located just a short distance from João Pessoa. The main beaches include:
- Barra do Gramame: where the Gramame River meets the ocean;
- Praia do Amor (Love Beach): famous for a rock where couples pass through to ensure eternal love;
- Tambaba: which features a section designated for nudists;
- Coqueirinho: known for its calm and peaceful vibe.
We’ll talk more about our experience at each of these beaches later!
Beaches of the Northern Coast of Paraíba
In addition to the southern coast, there are also tours available to the beaches of the northern coast of Paraíba. We didn’t visit them during this trip, but we had the chance to see Coqueirinho do Norte (Northern Coqueirinho Beach) while visiting the Correntino Waterfall and absolutely loved it! If you have the time, also check out Baía da Traição (Bay of Betrayal), a place filled with nature and history.
Our 4-Day itinerary in João Pessoa and surroundings
Now that you’re familiar with the main tourist attractions along Paraíba’s coast, particularly in João Pessoa, let me share our 3 (almost 4) days itinerary in João Pessoa!
We booked a package with Redrock that was both affordable and flawless. Honestly, it offered the best value we’ve experienced on any trip so far! While the package with accommodation isn’t available on their website, in October 2021, we paid R$ 550.00 (US$ 94.53 / € 90.14) for two nights at Pousada Atlântica, including breakfast, plus the Saturday tour of the southern coast beaches and viewpoints.
Currently, you can book the southern coast and viewpoints tour on their website for R$ 360.00 (US$ 61.87 / € 59.00) for two people, and arrange your stay through Booking.com. The Redrock website also offers other tour options in the area!
Keep in mind that Paraíba, while a small state, is packed with incredible destinations from north to south, inland and along the coast. There’s so much more to explore beyond what we can cover in this article. But here’s what we did!
Day 1: Friday
We took the 7:00 a.m. bus from Natal and arrived in João Pessoa at 10:30 a.m. From the bus station, located on the far end of the city, we took an Uber to our inn in Tambaú, where we checked in and got ready for the day ahead.
Since it wasn’t a day off for us, we worked until lunchtime, then went out to find a nice place to eat. There are plenty of restaurants along the beachfront, and while walking toward Cabo Branco, we found one that served delicious fish dishes.
After finishing our work in the afternoon, we headed out around 4:00 p.m. for a stroll along the Tambaú and Manaíra beachfronts. It was a relaxing walk, and after a quick shower, we got ready for dinner.
That evening, we dined at The W, right by the beach. We were in the mood for paella, so we searched for a good restaurant serving it and were pleasantly surprised! The ambiance was elegant, the music lively, the paella generous, and the cocktails absolutely fantastic.
Day 2: Saturday
On Saturday, we woke up bright and early to wait for the transfer to the southern coast beaches tour. Redrock had already coordinated everything with the guide from Tô de Folga JP, who picked us up at the inn. I love taking guided tours because the guides share stories and fun facts about the places, making the experience much richer!
We took the highway to Barra do Gramame, where the river meets the sea at the border between João Pessoa and Conde. There, we stopped at Bar do Mexicano and took a dip in the river’s super warm waters.
Next, we headed to Praia do Amor (Love Beach) and snapped some photos at the famous rock said to seal relationships forever.
We skipped swimming at Praia do Amor and moved on to one of the stops we were most excited about: Praia de Tambaba. From the viewpoint, you can admire the beauty of the beach and the peculiar coconut tree growing atop a rock. Experiencing a nudist beach was something we really wanted to do, and even with the rain, we enjoyed it immensely!
The beach has a nudist section and a “regular” one. Right at the corner of the beach, there’s a well-marked staircase, and beyond that point, undressing is mandatory.
Keep in mind that the nudist beach is an Environmental Protection Area (APA), overseen by an association ensuring that nudism is practiced responsibly. I felt more comfortable there than at many clothed beaches. If you decide to visit, be sure to respect the rules and other visitors.
We stayed until close to lunchtime, then headed to Coqueirinho Beach. We had lunch there and enjoyed the calmest waters of the trip—just like a natural swimming pool!
Although there were several stops, we got to enjoy each one thoroughly. Every beach has its unique charm, and who knows? Maybe we’ll come back one day to spend a full day at each.
Afterward, we went to the Redrock headquarters in Coqueirinho, where we received quad bike training before starting the tour of the viewpoints. Driving a quad bike is exhilarating!
We started at Shopping Rural, a fascinating spot! It’s a series of small clay houses where each member of a family runs a shop. This idea was started by Dona Luiza, and now her children sell unique items, turning it into a thriving family enterprise—a truly creative endeavor.
The shops offer sweets, handicrafts, cachaça (traditional Brazilian alcoholic beverage made from sugarcane juice, similar to rum but distinct in its production process), tapioca (traditional Brazilian dish made from tapioca flour, derived from cassava root), nuts, clothes, and more. We picked up some fridge magnets, a pair of earrings for me, and an incredibly delicious 21-herb cachaça.
Next, we headed to the Castelo da Princesa (Princess Castle) Viewpoint at Sítio Tambaba. The rock and colored sand formations here, shaped by rain, wind, and tides, were captivating. Ever seen those bottles filled with layers of colorful sand? They make plenty of those here!
From there, we went to the Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger) Viewpoint, which has one of the most stunning views I’ve ever seen. Imagine a deep blue sea contrasting with lush green forests—truly breathtaking.
Nearby is the Turtle Viewpoint at Tabatinga Beach, another incredible spot! The landscapes left us absolutely speechless, and we highly recommend this tour to anyone visiting João Pessoa. The scenery is extraordinary, and exploring the viewpoints on quad bikes adds a thrilling twist to the experience.
After so much beauty and excitement, we returned to João Pessoa to prepare for what would be our final day in this amazing destination.
Day 3: Sunday
We scheduled the natural pools tour a bit in advance. Since it would start at 11 a.m. (due to low tide), we decided to visit the Cabo Branco Lighthouse and its viewpoint beforehand.
We took an Uber from Tambaú to the lighthouse and arrived early, finding the place almost empty. We snapped plenty of pictures at a park in front of the lighthouse, which was lots of fun. The view is stunning, and we could even see the natural pools we’d visit later.
We walked down the seafront back to Tambaú. It’s a bit of a trek, but with the ocean view, it’s manageable. A light drizzle cooled us off, and after a quick shower in Tambaú, we boarded the catamaran for the natural pools tour.
The tour was lively and crowded (think loud music, drinks, etc.). It didn’t bother us, but if you prefer a quieter experience, renting a private boat might be a better option.
After enjoying some grilled skewers and drinks, we arrived at the natural pools. They were stunning, but since several boats arrived simultaneously, it was a bit crowded. So, we swam further away to better enjoy the peaceful surroundings, and that made all the difference.
We also tried kayaking, but the guide didn’t allow us to venture too far. I played around on a stand-up paddleboard for a while, making the experience even more enjoyable. As the tide began to rise, we started heading back to the boat.
Unfortunately, the tour left a little late, and on the return trip, there was an issue with the anchor, which delayed us significantly. We had purchased tickets to return to Natal in the late afternoon, but we ended up missing our bus.
In the end, we booked another night at our pousada and spent the evening strolling along the Tambaú seafront. We visited a charming little craft fair, where we picked up a few souvenirs. Early Monday morning, we headed back to Natal.
We hope you enjoyed our travel diary about João Pessoa! These were truly special and surprising days—we never imagined the Paraíba coastline could be so breathtaking.
We’re sure there are many more beaches and hidden gems to discover in this state’s interior. Let us know in the comments if you’ve been to Paraíba and what you loved most about it!
