Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim in Salvador: When It Happens and Tips!

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The Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim is one of Brazil’s most iconic religious celebrations, and in 2024, it marked 270 years of tradition!

Every year, thousands of devotees and tourists gather in the streets of Salvador to take part in this unique festival, which blends elements of religion, culture, and popular tradition.

In this article, we’ll delve into the fascinating history behind the Lavagem do Bonfim, explore when and how it takes place, dive into its attractions, and share valuable tips for those looking to experience this incredible celebration.

Get ready to embark on a journey of faith, festivity, and cultural diversity as we uncover the details of this truly special event.

People gathered in front of the Basilica of Senhor do Bonfim during the Lavagem (Source: Personal Archive)
The Lavagem is a moment of celebration and faith for various religions! (Source: Personal Archive)

What is the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim?

The Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim (translated as the “Washing of Senhor do Bonfim”) is a religious festival held annually on the second Sunday of January in Salvador, Bahia.

This celebration gathers thousands of people from around the world to honor Bahian faith and culture. It is the second-largest popular event in Bahia, surpassed only by Carnival.

The festivities begin around 9 to 10 a.m., as participants gather in front of the Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia in the Comércio neighborhood, near the Elevador Lacerda. From there, an 8-kilometer (5-mile) procession starts, typically taking about four hours to reach the Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim.

Throughout the parade, you’ll witness various cultural and religious expressions: traditional baianas in typical attire (women dressed in traditional Afro-Brazilian attire, known for their role in preserving Bahia’s culture and spirituality, often seen performing purification rituals during the Lavagem do Bonfim), Catholic processions, samba groups, and other rhythms. It is also a moment when some political groups hold protests.

White is the symbolic color of the celebration, representing Oxalá, considered the father of all orixás in Candomblé. Oxalá is associated with peace, purity, and wisdom.

Wearing white during the Lavagem do Bonfim is a way to honor Oxalá and acknowledge his spiritual significance in Afro-Brazilian culture.

This practice reflects the religious diversity found in Bahia, where elements of Candomblé, Catholicism, and other spiritual traditions harmoniously and respectfully intertwine.

Panel honoring Marielle Franco photographed during the Lavagem do Bonfim procession (Source: Personal Archive)
Panel honoring Marielle Franco photographed during the Lavagem do Bonfim procession (Source: Personal Archive)

When is the Lavagem do Bonfim held?

The Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim takes place annually on the second Sunday of January. This event marks the beginning of the religious festivities, culminating in the Feast of Senhor do Bonfim, Salvador’s patron saint, celebrated on the second Sunday after Epiphany.

Woman at the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim (Source: Personal Archive)
The Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim happens in January and is a wonderful way to start the year off right! (Source: Personal Archive)

History of the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim

The history of the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim dates back to the 18th century when devotion to Senhor do Bonfim was introduced in Salvador by the Portuguese.

This devotion was brought to Brazil by Theodósio Rodrigues de Faria, a captain in the Portuguese Navy who also held colonial administrative roles. Theodósio owned three slave ships that transported enslaved people from West Africa to Brazil.

During a maritime storm, Theodósio vowed that if he survived, he would personally bring images of Senhor do Bonfim and Nossa Senhora da Guia to Brazil.

Upon bringing the image of Senhor do Bonfim to Salvador, Theodósio and other devotees attempted to establish an official brotherhood to promote the devotion culturally. This group aimed to maintain the temple built in honor of Senhor do Bonfim and organize festivities. However, the creation of the brotherhood was not approved.

In January, it became customary to clean the temple with the labor of enslaved individuals.

As an act of resistance and reinterpretation, practitioners of candomblé incorporated the Lavagem into the Águas de Oxalá rituals.

The Archdiocese of Salvador then prohibited the washing of the church’s interior, restricting the traditional women dressed in white to the church steps.

In addition to the white garments worn by devotees during the procession and the ritual washing, another notable symbol of Afro-Brazilian faith is the use of quartinhas (clay pots) filled with scented water, carried by the baianas to cleanse the church’s steps.

Today, the Lavagem do Bonfim is a celebration that blends sacred and secular elements, creating an atmosphere of festivity and devotion that attracts thousands of faithful and tourists from across Brazil and the world.

How did the ribbons become part of the celebration?

The ribbons (fitinhas) are one of the key symbols of the Senhor do Bonfim celebration. The most well-known story suggests they were introduced to the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim by Portuguese merchant Manoel Antônio da Silva Servo in 1809.

As treasurer at the time, Manoel’s idea was to increase fundraising for the veneration of Senhor do Bonfim. However, records show the ribbons had already been sold as early as 1792.

The original ribbon was called “measures of Bonfim” (medidas do Bonfim) because it was 47 centimeters long—exactly the length of Senhor do Bonfim’s right arm on the iconic image.

Today, these ribbons are an integral part of the celebration, symbolizing faith, protection, and devotion.

They are tied to the church’s railings by devotees during the festivities and also around individuals’ wrists, where three knots are made—each representing a wish. These wishes are said to be granted when the ribbon naturally wears out and breaks.

Bonfim Ribbons (Source: Unsplash)
Bonfim Ribbons tied to the church railings (Source: Unsplash)

Attractions of the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim

The Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim features a variety of attractions that contribute to the vibrant and festive atmosphere of the celebration.

Among the highlights are the traditional Afro blocs, such as Bloco Afro Muzenza, Associação Afoxé Ilê Oyá, and Filhos de Gandhy (Gandhy’s sons). These groups are part of the procession that winds through the streets of Salvador toward the Bonfim Church.

Their musical performances, featuring drums, dances, and vivid colors, captivate participants and set the rhythm of the celebration.

Filho de Gandhy sprinkling scented water during the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim (Source: Personal Archive)
Filho de Gandhy sprinkling scented water during the Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim (Source: Personal Archive)

Another must-see attraction is the visit to Largo de Roma, home to the Santa Dulce dos Pobres Memorial. Known as the “Good Angel of Bahia,” the blessed Dulce dedicated her life to helping the needy and is revered by thousands of faithful.

At Largo de Roma, visitors can learn more about Sister Dulce’s life and work, visit her tomb at the Sanctuary of the Blessed, and participate in religious celebrations in her honor.

It’s worth noting that the Festa do Senhor do Bonfim officially concludes after the Lavagem, on the second Sunday following Epiphany.

On this day, the faithful are invited to walk three times around the Basílica Santuário Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, making three wishes.

Afterward, it’s common to enjoy the festivities with stalls offering sweets, savory snacks, and other local delicacies.

Tips for Fully Enjoying the Lavagem do Bonfim

The Lavagem do Bonfim procession spans 8 kilometers and typically lasts about 4 hours. To make the most of the celebration, consider these tips:

  • Arrive early: The festivities start around 9 a.m., so arriving early ensures you can enjoy all the activities and avoid larger crowds.
  • Wear light and comfortable clothing: Salvador’s weather can be hot and humid, especially in summer. Opt for breathable outfits like cotton shirts, shorts, and hats to stay cool.
  • Protect yourself from the sun: Don’t forget sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat to shield yourself from the sun while participating in the outdoor festivities.
  • Stay hydrated: Drink plenty of water or coconut water throughout the event to avoid dehydration.
  • Respect traditions: Be mindful of and respect the religious customs of the Lavagem do Bonfim, such as the ritual of washing the church steps and tying ribbons to the church railings.
  • Savor local cuisine: Take the chance to taste delicious Bahian dishes like acarajé, abará, vatapá, and moqueca.
  • Follow the processions: Join the processions and parades featuring baianas, musicians, and devotees making their way through Salvador’s streets toward Bonfim Church.
  • Enjoy cultural performances: Celebrate Bahia’s rich culture by attending the music and dance performances that enliven the festivities.

By following these tips, you’ll be well-prepared to enjoy a memorable experience at the Lavagem do Bonfim in Salvador.

A hand holding a flower in front of the Basilica of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim in Salvador (Source: Personal Archive)
Climbing the Sacred Hill and reaching the Basilica of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim is a deeply emotional moment (Source: Personal Archive)

The Lavagem do Senhor do Bonfim is much more than just a religious festival. It’s a cultural celebration that blends tradition, devotion, and joy in a single event.

Over the years, this celebration has become one of the defining symbols of Bahian culture, attracting visitors from across Brazil and around the world.

In this article, we’ve explored the history, meaning, and unique aspects of the Lavagem do Bonfim, highlighting its significance to the cultural identity of Salvador and Bahia as a whole.

From its origins to today’s festivities, it’s evident how this celebration remains vibrant and relevant, enriching Brazil’s cultural heritage.

May each edition of the Lavagem do Bonfim offer an opportunity to renew faith, celebrate diversity, and strengthen community bonds. Let’s continue to preserve and honor this rich tradition, ensuring future generations can enjoy this unique experience.

Emilly Chagas

A passionate traveler always on the lookout for new adventures, both in her city and beyond! Deeply in love with Brazil, she aims to showcase the country's beauty to the world and share tips on how to make the most of any trip to Brazil, no matter your destination or travel style.

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