You’ve probably never heard of Correntino Waterfall. I hadn’t either until I spent six months living in Natal, the capital of Rio Grande do Norte.
But this experience turned out to be much more than just a visit to a waterfall.
That day, I immersed myself in the history, culture, and rituals of the Potiguara Indigenous people, who inhabit the coasts of Rio Grande do Norte, Paraíba, Ceará, and Pernambuco. Join me to explore this story!
Where is Correntino Waterfall located?
Correntino Waterfall is situated in the municipality of Rio Tinto (Tinto River), Paraíba, near the border with Rio Grande do Norte. It’s a small fragment of the Rio Tinto water complex, named after the reddish hue of its waters. The red color comes from the sedimentation of native leaves in the area.
Map
Correntino Waterfall is located within the Potiguara Indigenous Land and is very easy to access. Keep reading for all the details!
How to get to Correntino Waterfall and Tinto River?
Correntino Waterfall is accessible via the BR 101 highway, near the Federal Highway Police station. While the trail is short, around 1.5 km from the highway, I recommend going with a guide.
First, because it’s an environmentally protected area and requires care. Second, the trail includes some forks and muddy patches that can confuse those unfamiliar with the terrain.
Finally, it’s worth noting that this is also a cultural immersion. Being guided by someone who truly understands the place makes the experience entirely different.
We joined a tour organized by Capitão Amarelo and were accompanied by Shaman Sanderline, which made our experience unforgettable.
Our experience at Correntino Waterfall
My partner and I left Natal early in the morning (we met the Capitão Amarelo group at Agaé, the go-to meeting point for tours in Natal) and headed to Correntino Waterfall.
The minibus we were traveling in picked up Shaman Sanderline along the way, and we went straight to the trailhead.
We asked for permission to enter the forest and soon found ourselves surrounded by dense vegetation. Sanderline sang as we made our way down, wading through the muddy paths and connecting with nature. Even for those who aren’t particularly spiritual, the moment was enchanting.
You can feel the forest’s energy as you descend. After a steeper stretch, we arrived at the waterfall.
The main cascade isn’t very tall, but it’s powerful. Further ahead, there’s another smaller cascade, which is a spring.
The waterfall’s walls are coated with white clay, perfect for a natural skincare session! We laid out our communal breakfast on a towel. Everything was delicious! After enjoying the waterfall, we began a healing ritual led by Sanderline.
Sanderline is incredibly wise, sharing her knowledge in the simplest, most accessible way. No overcomplications. A simple conversation with her teaches lessons that can change your perspective on life.
We stayed at the waterfall until close to lunchtime, at which point we expressed our gratitude and departed for Rio Tinto.
Tinto River (Rio Tinto)
On the way, the Capitão Amarelo guide and Sanderline shared more about the history of the Potiguara indigenous people in the region and the dominance of the Lundgren family, who massacred many villages there.
The Lundgren family was responsible for establishing textile factories in the cities of Rio Tinto, Paraíba, and Paulista, Pernambuco. Under the guise of developmental progress, the family patriarch, Herman Lundgren, built “worker villages with factories” in these cities, controlling not only working hours but also the entire lives of the workers.
The exploitation of indigenous people was severe, with Herman Lundgren’s cruelty infamous throughout the region. The family’s decline began with the Allied victory over the Nazis in World War II, as they were supporters of the regime.
However, the struggle continues. In 2017, Lundgren family heirs filed a lawsuit seeking the eviction of 1,200 families in Rio Tinto.
Today, the indigenous people living there are fighting to reclaim their land and restore their culture.
A former Lundgren family mansion is being converted into a Potiguara memorial.
We took a quick tour of the city’s main square, where we saw the massive Gothic-style church built by the Lundgrens, which even features Nazi symbols.
We also spotted some sloths in the large trees—a lighter distraction amid such a heavy history.
Coqueirinho do Norte Beach
After exploring Rio Tinto, we headed to Coqueirinho do Norte Beach, where we stopped for lunch. The Capitão Amarelo team had arranged everything at a beachside tent, though unfortunately, we can’t recall the name.
When we arrived, the generous meal was already served, and we refueled. Lunch wasn’t included in the package but cost just R$25.00 (US$ 4,35 / € 4,10) per person, served buffet-style.
After eating to our hearts’ content, we spent the rest of the day at the beach, relaxing until sunset.
The beach is incredibly peaceful and stunningly beautiful. A short walk to the right leads to where the Caieiras River meets the ocean, providing the perfect spot to watch the sunset.
Here, Sanderline shared the tale of the Witches of Coqueirinho, who, according to local legend, would travel leagues in search of seeds and new plants. They would take fishermen’s boats late at night, singing:
“Row, row, my dear, each stroke takes us a league farther.”
“Rema, rema, minha cumade, que cada remada já é uma légua.”
After their long journeys, they would return with never-before-seen species to the Coqueirinho region. You can learn more about these stories in the books “É história viva, num é história morta” (It’s Living History, Not Dead History) and “Histórias Ancestrais do Povo Potiguara” (Ancestral Stories of the Potiguara People).
After watching the sunset, we returned to Natal, tired but amazed by the wealth of stories, legends, and culture hidden within Brazil.
Other destinations along the Potiguara Coast
The region is home to several other fascinating attractions, many of which are organized by the Potiguara tribes that live there.
Capitão Amarelo, for instance, offers trips to Baía da Traição, a site of historical significance where the Potiguaras fought against Portuguese forces led by Gonçalo Coelho.
That’s all for now! If you visit the region, please respect the customs and biodiversity of the area. Remember that for the locals, the forest is sacred — it’s their home and livelihood.
Above all, take the opportunity to learn and enjoy this incredibly rich region!
For more travel inspiration in Brazil and beyond, stay tuned to Do in Brazil!
